Glossary

Brocatelle refers to a tightly woven Jacquard fabric with a warp effect in the figure which is raised to give a puffed appearance. The puff effect is created by several kinds of filli ngs', tension weaving of a linen or nylon which shrinks after a heat process. Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. Brocatelle is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. A True Brocatelle is double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the 13th and 14th century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.