Deutsch: Tokenismus / Español: Tokenismo / Português: Tokenismo / Français: Tokenisme / Italiano: Tokenismo
Tokenism in the fashion context refers to the superficial inclusion of underrepresented groups—such as people of different ethnicities, body types, genders, or abilities—without genuine commitment to diversity, equity, or systemic change. This practice is often used by brands to appear inclusive or socially progressive while maintaining traditional industry norms.
Description
Tokenism in fashion occurs when brands or designers include a small number of diverse models or influencers in campaigns, runway shows, or advertisements primarily for optics rather than meaningful change. This can be seen in cases where a brand features one plus-size model in a campaign while still predominantly producing clothing in limited, straight-size ranges. Similarly, a company may highlight racial diversity in marketing while lacking true representation in leadership or decision-making roles.
The fashion industry has long been criticised for its lack of inclusivity, and as consumers demand more diversity, brands often use tokenism as a marketing strategy rather than an authentic commitment to representation. Some common examples include:
- Featuring a single model of colour in an otherwise homogeneous campaign.
- Using diverse models for special collections (e.g., "body positivity" or "inclusive" lines) while maintaining exclusionary sizing.
- Hiring minority designers or creatives for one-off projects without integrating diversity into the brand’s core values.
- Celebrating diversity during cultural moments (e.g., Black History Month, Pride Month) but failing to support those communities year-round.
Tokenism can be harmful because it gives the illusion of progress without addressing systemic issues in the fashion industry, such as lack of diversity in leadership, unequal pay, and limited opportunities for marginalised communities.
Special Issues with Tokenism in Fashion
- Lack of Structural Change: True diversity requires internal changes, not just diverse marketing.
- Performative Activism: Some brands highlight diversity to attract consumers but fail to enact real inclusion policies.
- Backlash from Consumers: Social media has made it easier to call out brands engaging in tokenism without meaningful action.
Application Areas
- Advertising & Marketing: Brands may feature diverse models in campaigns without reflecting real change.
- Runway Shows: Some designers include a limited number of diverse models while maintaining exclusivity in their collections.
- Fashion Editorials: Magazines may highlight minority creatives in special issues without ongoing representation.
- Brand Collaborations: Some companies partner with diverse designers for short-term projects without integrating them into long-term decision-making.
Well-Known Examples
- Victoria’s Secret: Faced criticism for tokenistic inclusion of plus-size and trans models after years of exclusivity.
- High-Fashion Runways: Many luxury brands only began featuring diverse models after public backlash.
- Fast Fashion Diversity Campaigns: Some brands promote inclusivity in ads while still lacking fair labour practices for workers in developing countries.
Risks and Challenges
- Consumer Distrust: Tokenism can damage a brand’s credibility if seen as inauthentic.
- Superficial Representation: Without real policy changes, diversity efforts may feel empty.
- Missed Opportunities: Brands that fail to genuinely embrace inclusivity risk losing relevance in an evolving market.
Similar Terms
- Performative Activism
- Diversity Washing
- Cultural Appropriation
- Inclusive Fashion
Summary
Tokenism in fashion refers to the superficial inclusion of diverse individuals in marketing and campaigns without meaningful industry change. While representation is important, true inclusivity requires systemic shifts in hiring, product offerings, and company culture. Consumers increasingly demand authenticity, making tokenism a risky and outdated strategy for brands.
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