Glossary

The year 1939 was a significant turning point in fashion, influenced heavily by the onset of World War II. The fashion world, which had been flourishing in the 1930s with luxurious designs and an emphasis on glamour, began to face the realities of a world on the brink of conflict. Despite the looming war, 1939 was marked by the continued popularity of certain trends, key fashion events, and the industry's response to the rapidly changing global situation.

Trends and Style Directions

Fashion in 1939 was a blend of the elegant styles of the late 1930s and the emerging practicalities brought on by the war.

• Glamorous Silhouettes: The late 1930s were known for their glamorous, feminine silhouettes, and this trend continued into 1939. Dresses with nipped-in waists, padded shoulders, and flowing skirts were popular, emphasizing a womanly figure. Evening gowns often featured floor-length hemlines, luxurious fabrics like silk and satin, and intricate details such as beading or embroidery.

• Utility and Simplicity: As the world edged closer to war, there was a growing emphasis on practicality in fashion. The impending conflict began to influence clothing designs, with simpler, more utilitarian styles starting to appear. This shift foreshadowed the more austere fashion that would become necessary during the war years, where functionality would take precedence over luxury.

• The Tailored Suit: Women's fashion in 1939 prominently featured the tailored suit, which combined elegance with practicality. Suits often had broad, padded shoulders, fitted waists, and straight skirts that fell just below the knee. This look was both stylish and functional, reflecting the increasing roles women were taking on in the workforce as global tensions rose.

• Military Influences: Even before the war officially began, military influences were visible in fashion. Elements such as structured shoulders, belted waists, and double-breasted coats were incorporated into civilian clothing, echoing the uniforms of the time. This trend would only intensify as the war progressed, with fashion becoming more aligned with the practical needs of the wartime environment.

Major Fashion Events

1939 saw several key events that shaped the fashion industry, some of which were directly influenced by the geopolitical situation.

• New York World's Fair: The New York World's Fair, held in 1939, was a major event that showcased the latest in design and technology, including fashion. The theme of the fair was "The World of Tomorrow," which reflected an optimistic view of the future despite the growing tensions in Europe. Fashion exhibits at the fair highlighted both the current trends and the possibilities of future styles, with an emphasis on modernism and innovation.

• Hollywood's Influence on Fashion: Hollywood continued to play a significant role in shaping fashion in 1939. Films like Gone with the Wind, which premiered that year, had a massive impact on popular styles. The movie's elaborate costumes, designed by Walter Plunkett, rekindled interest in romantic, historical fashions, particularly the crinoline skirts and corseted waists of the mid-19th century. Hollywood stars like Vivien Leigh and Joan Crawford were fashion icons, influencing everyday style through their on-screen and off-screen wardrobes.

• Paris Fashion Shows: Despite the escalating war in Europe, Paris remained the epicenter of high fashion in 1939. Major fashion houses such as Chanel, Schiaparelli, and Balenciaga continued to present their collections, although there was a palpable tension in the air. The shows were less extravagant than in previous years, reflecting both the economic impact of the war and the uncertainty of the times. Many designers began to consider how to adapt their businesses to the changing world, with some starting to shift operations away from Europe.

Key Discussions

The discussions in fashion during 1939 were dominated by the war and its implications for the industry.

• The Impact of War on Fashion: The looming war was the central topic in fashion circles in 1939. Designers, retailers, and consumers alike were concerned about how the conflict would affect the availability of materials, the viability of luxury goods, and the future of the fashion industry as a whole. There was growing awareness that fashion would need to adapt to the new realities of a world at war, with an emphasis on practicality, durability, and resourcefulness.

• The Role of Fashion in Wartime: As Europe prepared for war, there was much discussion about the role fashion could play in maintaining morale. Fashion was seen as a way to preserve a sense of normalcy and dignity, even in difficult times. This idea would later evolve into the concept of "make do and mend" during the war, where fashion became a symbol of resilience and creativity in the face of adversity.

• American Fashion Independence: With the war threatening Europe, there was increased discussion about the need for American fashion to develop its own identity, separate from Parisian influence. Designers in the United States began to explore more distinctly American styles, focusing on practicality, functionality, and a more relaxed, casual elegance that would become a hallmark of American fashion in the 1940s.

Anniversaries and Milestones

• 20th Anniversary of the Bauhaus: Although not directly a fashion anniversary, 1939 marked the 20th anniversary of the founding of the Bauhaus school of design, which had a significant impact on modern aesthetics, including fashion. The Bauhaus emphasized functionality, simplicity, and the integration of art and industry, principles that began to influence fashion design as well, particularly in the rise of minimalist and functional clothing as the war approached.

Disasters and Setbacks

• Outbreak of World War II: The most significant event of 1939 was the outbreak of World War II in September, following the German invasion of Poland. This event had an immediate and profound impact on the fashion industry. The war led to widespread disruption in Europe, with many fashion houses forced to close or relocate. The availability of luxury materials like silk and wool became severely restricted, leading to the development of new, synthetic fabrics and the repurposing of existing materials. The war also caused a major shift in the focus of fashion, from glamour and luxury to practicality and survival.

• Decline of Paris as Fashion Capital: With the onset of war, Paris's position as the undisputed capital of fashion was threatened. Many designers and industry professionals fled the city, and the famous Parisian fashion shows were scaled back or canceled altogether. This decline paved the way for other fashion centers, particularly New York, to rise in prominence during the war years.

Summary

The year 1939 was a year of transition and uncertainty in the fashion world, shaped profoundly by the impending global conflict. Trends like glamorous silhouettes, tailored suits, and military influences reflected both the lingering elegance of the 1930s and the practical demands of a world preparing for war. Major events like the New York World's Fair and Hollywood's influence continued to drive fashion forward, even as discussions about the impact of war and the future of the industry took center stage. The outbreak of World War II marked the beginning of a challenging period for fashion, with significant changes in how clothing was produced, worn, and perceived. Despite the challenges, 1939 set the stage for the resilience and adaptability that would define fashion in the years to come.

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